The following procedure will have the outsides of the parts de-burred, leaving only the mating surfaces of the parts to be de-burred. This is particularly useful when doing the wing skins, so they don’t have to be flipped over to de-burr both sides.
1) Cleco parts
2) Drill parts
3) Before moving clecos to finish drilling, de-burr holes just drilled.
4) Move clecoes to holes just drilled
5) Drill parts
6) De-burr remaining holes.
I use a pneumatic drill with a 110 degree countersink (set at the lowest possible pressure)to de-burr holes. The drill should barely be turning and easily stopped using your fingers..

Horizontal Stabilizer
Be sure to use flush rivets on the outer ribs.
Use a flat bar bucking iron when riveting the bottom skin.
Work towards outer aft corners when riveting bottom skin. This way you will only need to use one pulled rivet.

Vertical Stabilizer
Check that leading edge is symmetrical before riveting.

Wings
Drill the wing attachment holes in the individual pieces up to just before the final size. Then drill the final size after they are riveted together. If you try and drill up to the final size with all the layers in place, you run the risk of drilling the hole crooked. As me how I know!

Be sure to rivet the intermediate strut attachment points to the front spar. The bend goes forward. This part is not mentioned in the manual.

Installation of turning pulley bracket.
1) DO NOT rivet along the line where the ribs will go!
2) DO NOT install pulleys until installing the cables (immediately before the skin is attached.) Otherwise you will be removing and re-installing the pulleys to install the cables. Nyloc nuts do not like being re-used more than necessary.

Skins

Be sure to rivet both the top skin AND the leading edge at he same time. The manual says to rivet the top skin to the front spar and then install the leading edge pieces.

Clecos (at least 500 3/32
250 1/8 and 50 5/32)